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5-2. Update (June 13-30, 2009)
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Update (June 13-30, 2009) Update (June 27, 2009): Six wheels (two rears, four fronts) go out to the shop for removal and sand blasting. Determination will be made as to what rims and tires will be used in the final assembly when they are returned.
Interesting Side Note Concerning Wheelhorse Rim Color (Wheelhorse "Linen"): As stated earlier, I spoke at length with Vic and Dick McNeal at the 2009 Wheelhorse Show, while admiring Vic's beautiful WH "16". Vic had described many of the painting features, products, and methods used in the restoration of this superb machine. I asked about his choice of wheel paint, as it appeared to me to be as perfect a color match as I'd ever seen. In particular I questioned which manufacturer and color he'd used on them, and his answer surprised me. Based on our previous paint discussions, I was sure he'd had the wheel paint "color-matched", as he had done for the red paint on the body panels. He stated he'd used Sherwin-Williams "Antique White" from a rattle can. I almost could not believe it because they just looked so good. I stopped at a local Sherwin-Williams store and bought a can, and using my dismounted rims before they were sand blasted, performed a side-by-side color test. See for yourself in the pictures below.
Vic McNeal's WH 16
The original paint on the inside of my restorations rear rims is reasonably well preserved. To test Vic's assertion, I cleaned the original paint with "Oops!" (similar to "Goof-Off") and some steel wool, in order to remove dirt and surface oxidation. I then masked half of the cleaned area and sprayed Sherwin-Williams "Antique White" to see a side-by-side comparison of this rattle can paint versus the original Wheelhorse Linen wheel color.
| Side-by-Side Comparison of Original Wheelhorse "Linen" vs. Sherwin-Williams "Antique White" Spray Can Paint |
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| Both rear rims shown side-by-side. The left rim is shown as it was found, the right is cleaned with Oops! and Steel Wool as is described above, and the color cap from the spray can is there as a reference. |
This is the resulting side-by side comparison of the original Wheelhorse Linen color vs. the Sherwin-Williams Antique White from a spray can. Less than half a shade different (at the worst case) for less than $5 a can. |
| Sherwin Williams - Controls Rust - Antique White (paint code 140-2486) |
The color match proves to be, in my opinion, Extremely close. In light of the original paint being 51 years old and time-aged, even protected as it was inside the rim, I believe that time and wear has darkened the original paint a shade. I have to believe that the Sherwin-Williams paint is as close to the original paint color sprayed in South Bend in 1958, as your likely to find from a rattle can. At less than $5.00 a can, you certainly can't beat the price. Sherwin-Williams paints cover very well, dry fast, thin and hard, is very shiny, and looks great on well prepared metal surfaces. I am now a believer, and will now use this paint on all my "old" rims and seat pans.
June 28, 2009: I completed many of the red parts. Front Axle Assembly; Seat Spring, Seat Hardware and Shifter Assembly; Attachment Lift Handle and Clutch/Brake Assemblies completed back to the brake band and idler arm; Rear Hubs, Draw Hitch, Attachment Side Plates, and the Attachment Lift Link. Began work on the Brake Drum, Drive Pulley, the Reel Mower Attachment Arm, and various other "spare parts" from the parts machine.
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Completed Axle Assembly (minus new "Clevis Pin,Steering" parts)
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| Completed Shifter Assy. and Seat Spring and Bolt Assy. |
Completed Brake/Clutch Assy. |
Completed Hubs, Hitch Attachment Plates and Lift Link |
| Refinishing Process |
Original Part
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Stripped & Cleaned |
Primed |
Painted |
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| Attachment Arm before work begins. There appear to be three coats of paint on this Reel Mower Attachment Bar; the original paint, a green color then the orange. White pin stripes were added by to the Hanger Plates a previous owner. |
Attachment Arm has been wire wheeled, sanded, edge dents repaired, and cleaned with "Metal Prep". When stripping parts, make sure they are primed within 30 minutes of being dry or they will begin to rust immediately. |
Attachment Arm has been primed, allowed to dry for 4 days, sanded with 400 and 800 grit wet paper, cleaned with "Simple Green", rinsed with water, and dried in the sun. |
Attachment Arm has been Painted with "Valspar Restoration Series - Tractor and Implement - IH (International Harvester) Red" |
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This is an example of my standard refinishing process. Each part is taken down to bare metal; Fixed, repaired, and/or re-mediated (fixed, corrected, etc.) to manufacturers original condition, cleaned with Metal Prep solution, then primed and painted. It should be noted here that the two painting processes, Priming and Color Painting, are performed per the manufacturers recommendations and from a spray can. Excellent spray can painting results can be achieved by simply following the directions, and careful preparation. An excellent surface preparation will yield excellent looks when its done. Don't spend the time preparing the surface, don't expect exceptional results. That simple. Read the Can! ..... it'll go a long way in yielding a great job. Also, spray technique is very important.
I always try to;
- Hold the can at the recommended distance from the part while spraying (again, read the can as all spray paints are different due to nozzle and spray pattern differences).
- Spray all hard edges (edges, corners, angles, or wear areas) with a single light coat of paint, before painting anything else, and let it "flash" (begin to dry and get tacky) for about 3-5 minutes (this allows the edges to have a little extra thickness of paint to reduces "edge-wear" and the possibility of buffing the corners/edges off).
- Spray the entire part with a very light "tack coat" (i.e paint evenly covers part, but you can very readily see the primer showing through the paint), and allow the tack coat to "flash" (3-5 minutes).
- Spray 2 or 3 more light passes around the entire part allowing each pass to "flash" for 1-2 minutes between passes. Paint is applied ONLY until you get a complete coverage and even coat of paint.
- THEN STOP! I've seen allot of paint jobs (both professional and amateur) ruined by putting too much paint on the part. I'd rather not spend 3 hours preparing a part, then ruin it in 5 minutes laying down too much paint, or get a run or sag.
This process, while following the can directions and recommendations, will never leave you with a run; will always dry thin; and will always look almost exactly like a professional paint-booth job. It only takes a few parts to get the technique down pat, but really takes patience (something I am not normally known for) to stop when you've got enough paint on the part. If it isn't thick enough (and it almost always is, and we think it's not), then wait the recommended re-coat time (again, READ THE CAN) and put on a second coat.
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Update (June 30, 2009): Excellent News/Good News/Bad News Day! The rims and tires have returned from dismounting and sand blasting. All 6 original tires removed are in excellent condition and all are re-usable. The Tires need to be thoroughly cleaned and "Tire Blacked", then reinstalled on selected rims. This is Excellent News. Rear Rims are in perfect condition. Also excellent news. One of the front rims is in perfect condition. (again, Excellent News), and one of the remaining front rims is in perfect but damaged condition (somewhat Bad News), and from here on out it gets worse.
The otherwise excellent, but damaged Rim should be repairable (again, somewhat Good News). The area immediately around the valve stem hole and downward toward the center of the rim before the flat area is badly corroded through in about a 1" x 1-1/2" area. The surrounding metal is very good, so I should be able to be cut it back to good steel, and a new piece of metal welded in its place. The "Not So Good News" part of this is that I will have to sacrifice one of the Very Poor condition front rims in order to get the proper shaped piece of metal to do the repair. The reason for going this route, rather than just finding another rim, is that this rim is in otherwise perfect condition. It'll take far less work to fix this one, than find another in as good condition.
The other two front rims, as stated, are in Very Poor condition (this is the Bad News). Bead blasting revealed "black rust" on both of the bead surfaces of both rims. The rust does not penetrate all the way through, but is so deep into the metal that when the black rust was removed it left waves along the bead edges almost 1/32" deep and spaced about 1/2" apart. Grinding and sanding may "correct" some of the the issue, but they will never be show quality rims.
The Brake Drum, new 1611 Drive Pulley, and Idler Pulley have been painted. The transmission rebuild will begin as the last remaining parts are in paint.
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| Completed Pulley Parts |
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Last Updated: 2009-08-10 05:25:21 (298 views)
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